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I DID IT! I hiked the entire 23.9 miles across the Canyon from Rim to Rim in three days. I even did an extra 4 mile hike on the second Day totally 28 miles hiked in 53 hours.
It was beyond words, which is why I haven't blogged about it in more than a week. I haven't been able to sit down and figure out a way to share this incredible experience with all of you.
I've been to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon now four times in my life, and it never gets old for me. Some may just see it as a big hole in the earth, namely my brother and SIL who now realize that they prefer a tropical location for all future vacations. I, on the other hand, am a mountain girl. I can't get enough of living near the mountains, and visiting other Parks like Yosemite.
We started out late on Wednesday the 2nd so we could all get in a good breakfast before the 14 mile hike down the North Kaibob Trail. For perspective, the Canyon is a Mile deep. So 14 miles going down from 8350 ft elev to about 2300 ft, is rough on the joints, toes and knees. Not much can simulate the effort is takes to walk down the Grand Canyon. Gym machines take you in an upward motion and even the mountains in LA only reach about 1000-1800 ft elevation change.
Every corner we turned, caused me to say, "Wow" out-loud many times throughout the day. I was so anxious to keep moving and to see more that I moved to the middle of the group, leaving behind my brother and SIL. I took photos of them on switchbacks high above me but I couldn't keep their slow pace.
My SIL is celebrating 10 years of beating Breast Cancer and she wanted to do this as part of that milestone. But 4.5 miles into the hike, she decided it was hurting her back too much and causing her sciatic nerve to act up. She and my brother turned around and I walkie'd back to ask if I should return with them, they responded via the leader, "negative." And I sadly hiked on with my new family of 10 strangers.
But honestly, I couldn't remain sad for long because I was in the middle of the beautiful Grand Canyon at by that point we had met up with the lovely Roaring Springs, a tributary to the Colorado River. My digital camera's display screen died and I continued to take photos, hoping that the camera itself was still working since it made the little click each time I snapped a pic. (I happily found out when I returned that it indeed worked).
I made a classic mistake along the trail of sticking my feet in the creek and not properly drying them off before putting on my wool socks and hiking boots. As a result, I had some dandy blisters and I learned that duct tape can prevent blisters because of its slick surface. Definitely bringing some on my next big hike.
Due to thunderstorms in the area all week, we had cloud cover all day and even through "the box" of the Canyon. Normally this approx. 4 miles of the trail can get really hot as you pass between a narrow section of the Canyon walls to reach the camping grounds near the Colorado River at the bottom. But the thunderstorms on the other side of the Canyon brought a cool breeze through the box.
The breeze also carried with it the smell of hiker's stew letting us know that we were close to the Phantom Ranch. (I had the veggie chili both nights and it was yummy). We all got a pep in our step and we hiked a little faster getting us to our destination in 8 hours from the top.
The most luxurious place to stay at the bottom is Phantom Ranch. And by luxurious I mean, clean cabins with swamp coolers, running water, electricity, and clean sheets on the beds. Beats a tent any day especially with the bottom of the Canyon reaching 100 degrees during the day. We had a cabin with 5 bunk beds close to the canteen hall where we dinned family style for Dinner and Breakfast.
On the hike I had made friends with the 10 strangers, especially 3 of them and we shared the extended bunk room. Henry, an Ex-Marine and Vietnam POW from DC; Audrey, a soon to retire former nurse now medical admin from Ohio; and Lois, an insurance co employee and marathon runner from Chicago. We called each other bunk mates and tended to stay in the middle of the pack together. They were now my adopted family on the trip and we have emailed each other at least once since returning. I hope to keep in touch with them and dream of going on the next adventure with them.
On Thursday, everyone was wary of doing a big hike and opted not to hike with Tom and his brother Don. Tom is the braggart of the group but with the experience to back him up. He is so hard core that he and Henry hiked from the South Rim to the North Rim while we drove from Phoenix to both Rims. Just so he could say he hiked it Rim to Rim to Rim. But Lois and I were ready for more adventures and I requested a hike of about 4 miles round trip.
We headed out early on the Clear Creek trail and got a view above the Phantom Ranch and then hiked a little farther up to see down the Colorado River. We lingered and watched a few rafting trips glide along the Canyon under the two pedestrian bridges. We spotted the South Kaibob Trail and Tom told us about the previous year's hike down the South Kaibob and up the Bright Angel Trail.
The South Kaibob Trail has no water stops and because it is shorter than it's counterpart the Bright Angel Trail, it is also steeper. Most people only hike down that trail. It is also used to carry in supplies via Mules. Everything at the bottom was and still is brought in by Mules. And, no, I did not get there via Mule nor did I pay the $60 to have my pack carried up by the Mules. I did however mail my parents a postcard from the bottom that was carried out by them. I had thoughtlessly left my address book at the top in the Bright Angel Bag Check so I mailed to the only address stored in my head.
When we returned to camp, my pedometer read exactly 3.96 miles hiked. Perfect, as my calves needed a stretch as they had grown tight from the hike the day before.
While at the bottom, we visited the Roaring Springs that was only 20 yards from our cabin, the Colorado River, lectures given by the Park Ranger, and had lunch that we packed in together. We also got hit by the Thunderstorm at the bottom but it was while we were safe inside the dining hall. We lingered but the hostess made us head out to our cabin where we continued to bond as a group.
On Friday, we ate breakfast at five in the morning and were on the trail at a quarter to six before the sun had barely reached the river. Walking over the bridge was truly amazing as you were in the heart of the Canyon at this point. I trailed behind my companions and had to hoof it to catch up as my digital camera battery died and I switched to my new phone to continue taking photos of the hike up. I also had a kink in my water line and had to adjust. I'm so glad I bought the 3 liter hydration bag so I didn't have to fill up at every stop.
We made good time up the trail to the lush and green area around Indian Gardens. This marked the spot that I had been to thirteen years previously. I had reached the point of the Canyon that was no longer brand new to me. But by no means, did this make the rest of the hike boring. The views along the trail were breathtaking.
The exertion of hiking up was also breathtaking and heart-pounding. I took full advantage of photo opportunities along the way to catch my breath and slow my heart rate. Once we reached the 3 Mile house which marks three miles to the top, I couldn't linger at the rest stops and needed to keep moving. My legs demanded it as did my eyes.
Henry teased me that this wasn't a race, and I assured him that I wasn't treating it like one but I knew that if I lingered too long my calves would refuse to budge another inch.
I continued the hike out on my own, with Tom and his brother Don ahead of me and probably at the top, and with Lois, Henry and Audrey behind me. I picked up an older German hiker at the Mile and a Half Water Stop and we gave each other thumbs up on our hike to the top as he didn't speak a word of English. We matched pace and even took photos of one another through one of the archways. A I reached the top at twenty past noon, I didn't see any of my hiking buddies around. I made my way to the lodge and called my brother to let him know I reached the top.
He and my SIL had a mixed time at the top of the Canyon. They were both tired of Arizona as it had given them just as many allergy problems as they had at home. They had gotten nicer cabins on both Rims after hiking out the North Kaibob Trail but after three days they were ready to go home. I found them to be as dark as the rain cloud over the canyon in the distance. And though they had graciously paid for my trip, they were raining on my parade.
They went back to their cabin, and I had lunch with my bunk mates instead. I opted for ice cream instead of salad because it was a driving force that helped me reach the top. Just like knowing there was cold beer at the Phantom Ranch at the bottom, knowing there was ice cream at the Lodge helped me lift my legs over the steeper parts of the trail heading up.
I had bought three souvenirs for myself, a charm that says, "I Hiked The Canyon", a small silver magnet, and a smooched penny. At the bottom, I replaced the charm on my necklace and haven't taken it off yet. I've been collecting charms from the places I visit since I was a kid, and it's nice to wear one so full of meaning to me.
There were days I cried because I thought I would have to give up on this trip because of my ankle injury. There were days that this trip gave me hope to push on through my medicine induced depression. And there were days when I knew that this would be a crowning achievement for the new me and there way no way I was going to give up or give in.
It was one of the most amazing things I have ever experienced and I honestly can't wait to do it again. I'm so tempted to drive out there and hike Rim to Rim stay at the beautiful and amazing Grand Canyon Lodge on the North Rim and hike back across the next day. LOL! Especially knowing that I'm only an eight hour drive away. Perhaps though, I should instead set my sites on reaching the top of Half Dome in Yosemite next.
In the meantime, I'm getting back into running and cycling since my ankle held up well on the hike. Continuing my adventurous life as best I can.