I have a marvelous book from 1979: Better than Store-Bought. Even all these years later, after watching the lengths they go to on America's Test Kitchen to make The Best whatever, the recipes in this book are worth making.

I baked these at 400 degrees, and maybe my oven is slow because they got kind of dried out in the process of getting to a lovely brown color. Next time, I'll bake them at 425 degrees.

Hamburger or Hot Dog Buns

Makes 20 large buns or 36 medium hot dog rolls.

2 cups milk
6 tbsp unsalted butter
2 tsp salt
2 tbsp brown sugar
1/4 cup warm water
2 pkg yeast
1 tbsp brown sugar
1 egg
6 - 7 cups flour
(1 teaspoon onion powder)
4 tbsp melted butter for brushing the rolls

Combine the milk, 6 tbsp butter, salt, and 2 tbsp brown sugar in a saucepan. Stir over medium heat until the butter melts. Let cool to 110 degrees. Combine the warm water with the yeast and 1 tbsp brown sugar. Let stand until foamy, about 10 minutes. In a large mixing bowl, beat the egg briefly, then beat in the yeast mixture, and the milk-butter mixture. Gradually beat in 4 cups flour, until very elastic.

Make a ring of 2 cups flour on a kneading surface. Pour in the batter and mix it roughly into the flour, using a dough scraper. Knead thoroughly, adding small bits of flour as needed to make a light and very elastic dough just firm enough to handle, not stiff and heavy. Form into a ball and rise in buttered bowl for 45 minutes to 1 hour. Punch down, cover the bowl again, and let rise 30 minutes, until doubled. Turn out onto a floured board, knead just enough to expel the air. Form into a ball, cover with a ball, let stand 10 minutes. Halve the dough and refrigerate one piece so it won't continue to rise. Roll out the other half 1/2 inch thick and cut into rounds 3 1/2 inches across for large buns, or 2 3/4 inches for medium. Place on lightly greased baking sheets about 1 inch apart. Cover with a towel and let rise until doubled.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees (or maybe 425). Have the melted butter ready. Brush the buns with butter and bake 18 to 20 minutes, placing the pans on the middle and upper shelves, switching the pans halfway through. They are done when tops and bottoms are a good golden brown. Brush again with butter and cool on racks, covered with towels.

Sesame topped: Beat 1 egg white with 1 tbsp water and brush over the tops of the buns. Sprinkle generously with sesame seeds. After rising, brush the buns with the butter, and also after baking.

Frankfurter rolls: Roll 1/2 of the dough to a 15 by 8 inch rectangle, 1/2 inch thick. Trim the edges and divide the dough into 3 sections about 5 inches long. Cut each section into 6 strips, about 5 inches long and 1 1/4 inches wide.

Flatten each dough strip until it is 2 inches wide and fold it firmly in half lengthwise, with the seam at the side. Round the tips of the rolls with your fingers and lay them 1/2 inch apart in rows on a greased baking sheet. Leave an inch around the edge of the pan, and an inch between the rows. Let rise and bake 15 to 20 minutes, brushed with butter, etc.